TOTEM FASHION LONDON welcomes XU ZHI !
XU ZHI is an independent young designer brand. After gaining academic experience at Central Saint Martins, the founder and designer Xuzhi Chen worked in a number of emerging designers’ studios, including Craig Green and J.W. Anderson. In 2014, Xuzhi Chen established his London studio and has now launched his ready to wear collection.
TOTEM FASHION LONDON welcomes Helen Lawrence !
Helen Lawrence hails from Whitley Bay, outside of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. She gained a textile degree at Chelsea College of Art & Design before going onto the MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 2012. She soon started collaborating with CSM classmate and menswear talent Craig Green on his covetable knitwear. Debuting her eponymous label with Fashion East for Autumn/Winter 2014, she caught the eye of esteemed press and buyers with her cosy brushed mohair two-pieces, blanket coats and sweaters with PVC scribble stitch embroidery. All fabrics are created by Helen in-house. Building on her signature shapes for Spring/Summer 2015, a second outing with Fashion East saw her hand-crafted knits paired with latex pieces. Leading international stores including Opening Ceremony and Concento now stock Helen Lawrence.
TOTEM FASHION PARIS welcomes Whole9Yards !
Whole9Yards is an internationalfashion brand headquartered in Singapore. It was started in September 2013 with the mission to bringvintage-inspired modern style to women. The brand draws inspiration from the romantic, delicate looks of the past, and interprets this using a modern aesthetic. Whole9Yards standalone boutiques are located in Singapore.
All collections are available worldwide at its online store, whole9yards.com.
FRANKENSTEIN’S DREAM There are collections that come together as an answer to the certain topic and those which are created as the result of being in the different state of mind. The newest collection by Gosia Baczyńska belongs to the second type. It came alive more as an effect of philosophical reflection accompanying the design process than application of ready-made inspiration. Words like eternity, endurance, continuation followed the designer through the whole designing process and somehow they define the vibe of the collection. The first point of reference is the find of photographic self-portrait from 1909 – the early example of utopian thinking that new technologies will bring the dream of eternity into being. Another one – the cult film „Frankenstein” directed by James Whale, the story that combines tragic romanticism and progressive offbeat vision. The blending of these two conditions, contrary on the surface, describes the collection in the most complete way and this is what is behind its provocative title. Both photography and film are also referenced in the collection in the choice of pattern, forms and fabrics. The pieces of clothing themselves are created with formal mastery and appreciation of female body shape.There are dresses constructed from tens of geometric metallic organza shapes hand-sewn together which creates unusual avant-garde forms. There are rich textured statement coats and jackets as well as subtle, perfectly cut suits and everyday dresses. There is old hollywood glamour and art deco decorations. There are laser-cut leather pieces and soft, hairy crochets. Baczyńska is able to made the outstanding, cohesive whole from million pieces puzzle. The collection is created from innovative cutting-edge fabrics as silver metallic organza and 3D jacquards with convex diamond shaped forms the shape of which is imitated in custom made knits. The diamond-like outline is further employed in the form of laser-cut leather applications. Rich textures of knits and jacquards are complimented by specially designed prints introducing the strings of story behind the collection. The aforementioned photographic print from 1909 placed in cine-film stripe decorates silk dresses and suits. Pop-cultural image of Frankenstein appears at custom made jacquards as black on black phantom appearance. Collection is supplemented by matching accessories which enhance the cine/photographic inspiration and the vibe of endurance and reappearance. The image form 1909 decorates the specially designed tights. Bags in black and silver mimic the shape of old cameras.