Allude FW13-14
URBAN LUXURY… it’s all about the dialogue
“In terms of the manufacturing process, it has been quite a challenge. We have combined the finest cashmere with leather to fulfill the highest standards of workmanship”, says Karg. “And we achieved this by collaborating with the best and most experienced artisans.”The result: leather and fur intersecting in harmony with cashmere to create a new urban Allude Silhouette.
In this collection Andrea has maintained her usual slim, figure-hugging silhouette, contrasting with a strong boyish look – sharp lines, crisp tailoring with masculine details. Cashmere, the material she is most passionate about, is weighted accordingly: from the finest knits of wafer to extremely opulent tailored multiple textures. A unique combination resulting in an ultra feminine hyper-cool look. Karg surprised her audience with four striking men styles.
The designer's colour palette is a response to the urban landscape - Petrol and Steel Blue paired with Dense Black.
Paco Rabanne FW13-14
London, April 1968. Françoise Hardy poses hieratic wearing a metal jumpsuit created by Paco Rabanne. A cult image that resonates throughout this Fall/Winter 2013-14 Collection, imagined by Lydia Maurer.
This season, the designer pays homage to the iconic style of the Mods; she draws her inspiration from their costumes and from the androgynous femininity of their muses. The graphic spirit of the 60’s is combined with the mastered nonchalance of the 90’s.
While consistently echoing back to architecture, never has the Paco Rabanne style been
so fluid and wearable. One discovers a contemporary wardrobe, encountering polos, school girl mini kilts, streamlined and faceted pants, short jackets or as the Mods would call them ‘buttfreeze jackets’ or a tapered redingote. Classics revisited by an ultra
graphic eye.
Metal mesh, an emblematic material of the House as well as leitmotif of the season, has become lighter and more supple. Flocked from the inside, it’s soft on the skin and follows the lines of the garments. Tamed, the metal is pleated, mimics the fluidity of knitwear or becomes rigid on metal briefcases that punctuate the silhouette.
The colour card is as sober as it is fresh: silver, white, black and ink blue are inspired by the legendary uniforms of airline pilots.
An essential score where geometry and detail meet modernity and a pure simplicity.
Hexa by Kuho FW13-14
résistance à l'amour
The coexistence of war and everyday life inspired this concept using ideas of historical minority resistance and rebellion. We have philosophically redefined 'resistance' and thus hexa by kuho 13FW collection was conceived. Our image is a minimalist representation of military and civilian relief while still utilizing avant-garde sensibility
The ultimate theme that is currently proposed is ‘Love’ again. hexa by kuho defines that the love is to resist the chain of emotions and to be free from the bondage of social conventions.
The missile, torpedo and the blueprint of arms are humorous representations as the state impelled and outburst of emotion and the emotion to Love itself. Since hexa by kuho has developed print surfaces variations using silicon and fabric bonding with laser cuts, the motives are newly reformed with unique expressions.
Manish Arora FW13-14
Imagine a place where people breathe and celebrate art without judgment and competition. At every step there is a discovery of a giant expression of art that leaves you enthralled. This Autumn Winter, Manish Arora brings the essence of such imagination on the runway. Manish inspired by his last visit to Burning Man in Nevada breathes the essence of the whole journey through this collection.
The print story progresses from the vast day landscape with cloudy blue sky recreated with layers of black and white elements and hint of warm colours over it, moving to evening clouds mixed with neon motifs and a play of geometric lines with neon rays.
Geometric Motif and borders are created translating the psychedelic mirage forms from Burning Man with lustrous laser-cut material, sequin embroideries, beads and Chains.
Peplum dresses and skirts are creating a new body consciousness at Manish Arora. Along with oversized tops and coats contrasting with pencil skirts and fitted pants. Sweatshirts have been developed in a full range of techniques and with his unique embellishment display.
This fall winter collection includes knitwear for the very first time, welcoming pleated dresses, lurex sweaters and revisited twin sets. Lingerie has been developed in partnership with the brand Insensée.
The colour palette comprises of shades of blue from the sky with a wide use of black, navy blue and green as the base along with the stimulants of bright pink, florescent orange, mustard and neon green.
The collection has a very rich and contrasted mix of fabrics: quilted neoprene, cotton velvet, silk crêpe, nappa leather and Saga fox fur.
Moulded leather turbans are one of the highlight of this season’s accessory range. Along with a range of uniquely hand embroidered and printed leather iPad cases, pouches, tote and hobo bags, corset belts, silk and cashmere scarves.
Amrapali, one of the finest jewellery makers from India in collaboration with Manish Arora has developed the Jewellery Collection for this season.
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Ground Zero FW13-14
GROUND-ZERO continues to be excited holding their second RTW Show during Paris Fashion Week, at the grand location of Garage Turenne.
GROUND-ZERO founded by brothers Eri and Philip Chu. The young designers began their journey in London, experimenting between Graphics and Fashion. Their signature paradox plays with prints and silhouettes, transforming concepts into visually aesthetic garments.
AW13 Collection is the evolution of women and machinery, where femininity is challenged by the manifest existence of technology. Regiments of futurism give this collection strong characteristics and modern elegance, consisting new applications of neoprene, cashmere and leather, protecting the body from its transitional surroundings.
Enriched by the classic fabrics vary from delicate silks, chiffon and organza, in contrary to harmonize the contours of lineation. Timeless details can be found in the balance of simplicity, within the form and structures complementing the androgynous prints.
AW13 is the reconnaissance of GROUND-ZERO’s Galaxy, a vision quest to conquer light-year in the present day.
Gerlan Jeans FW13-14
For Fall / Winter 2013, GERLAN JEANS, toasts Eccentric Ladies of the past, present
and future. Inspired by women who are born with a unique sense of style and dedicate their lives to the pursuit of rare beauty - ECCENTRIC LADY is a collection of illustrative graphic knitwear, evening inspired sportswear, surrealistic prints, and sculptural proportion.
Be daring, be different, be impractical, be anything that will assert integrity of purpose
and imaginative vision against the play-it safers, the creatures of the commonplace,
the slaves of the ordinary – Cecil Beaton
This season, GERLAN JEANS takes the printed surface to a new dimension, with a special collection of expressionistic knits, in collaboration with New York based knitwear label, DEGEN. Fine, richly colored wools are used to illustrate the surface, creating a painterly effect that extends into woven separates. Texture and dramatic proportion contrast - fluid georgettes drape against sculptural neoprene and tech outerwear is cropped for a formal effect. Richly saturated colors, bold illustrative graphics, and hand painted accessories express the eclectic energy of the ECCENTRIC LADY in all of us.
Louise Gray FW13-14
LOUISE GRAY presents HEY CRAZY, her collection for autumn/winter 2013 which sees LOUISE apply her signature sense of colour and clash to tailored pieces that are perfect for daywear. Fabrics have been specially woven for the collection, to bring intricate and advanced pattern to women with a devil-may-care attitude. “It’s so nice to see people dressed fabulously during the day,” says LOUISE. “I’ve found a confidence in tailoring, and it’s exactly what I want to wear right now.”
LOUISE has created new patterned cloths for the show they are so special, she has given each a name of its own. There’s “Piercings”, Giraffe” or “Tube Map” among others, with which often have a double layer of image within one pattern. LOUISE has used these double jacquards on pieces such as bell-shaped swing coats, the volume of fabric needed all the better to show off the pattern. “It’s good to have a roomier coat for winter,” says LOUISE. The double jacquards are also smashed into shift dresses with panels of leather, as well as matching jackets and skirts.
The patterns appear in other guises throughout the collection, such as the squiggles of “Tube Map” printed in black and white onto a shirt, or draped double-printed silk dresses, with crossovers and tiers, the silk sandblasted so that the cloth becomes faded. Also in the collection are knits, which for autumn/winter are patchworks of different colours and tensions joined together to create a covetable whole.
LOUISE’s key influence for the season was the Happenings movement of New York from 1958-1963, as well as the statement work of Barbara Kruger. LOUISE has collaborated for a second season with ROBERT CLERGERIE to create shoes which are a natural extension of the clothes, the heeled leather boots a perfect encapsulation of the prints and colours in the collection. LOUISE has also worked again with STEPHEN JONES to create hats for the collection, and has made some sunglassses and glasses, complete with eyelashes already on the glass, with LUNETTES KOLLEKTION.
