TOTEM FASHION welcomes Catalina Brenes, a Costa Rican jewelry designer based in Berlin. After graduating in Fine Arts at Costa Rica, she started dedicating to jewelry in 2005, first enrolling at “Studio Metallo”, then advancing to “Alchimia, contemporary jewelry school” in Florence, Italy, where she studied with masters like Peter Bahuis and Manfred Bischoff. Learning milenary jewellery technics with contemporary approaches. In 2010-2012, while opening her own workshop in Florence, she worked as assistant at “Antonella Villanova - Art jewelry gallery”, having the opportunity to attend with her work in international fairs like Design Basel and Collect, London. From August 2012 lives and works in Berlin. Obsessed by the essentiality in nature, she aims to create shapes that stand by themselves with purity and balance. Like the environment that stimulates, she constantly seeks to evoke timelessness.
Lumina is a collection inspired by light. Artists like James Turrell and Olafur Eliasson, who are inspired by light, space and reflections, were a big influence on this collection. Light is a bare necessity, but intangible at the same time. It defines forms, shapes and spaces but also triggers the viewers perception and emotions. With Lumina we tried to capture these emotions. The phenomenons of light and the transition of light from day to night. The transition of light from day to night, the time of the day and the difference between artificial and natural light are translated into vibrant colors against hard black and white contrast. Diffuse colors next to richer contrast colors and reflections. In the prints the light is represented in geometrical lines and strokes of light in black and white and a vibrant red. The use of soft and fluid materials in contrast with harder and glittery or textured materials in contrast with matte and shiny materials. Double face two toned fabrics represents the change of light. In the collection we find boxy, straight and geometrical shapes combined with more feminine, fluid and organic shapes with a minimal, sharp and graphical touch. To create a strong feminine and modern collection. Mainly clean finished with raw edge contrast and subtle color contrast details. That is Lumina.
Tony Ward s’inspire pour cette collection du tableau de maître du XIXème siècle "Tempête de neige ou Hannibal traversant les Alpes" par William Turner qui exprime les forces puissantes et contradictoires de la nature. Un sombre nuage orageux domine les cieux ; le soleil tente désespérément de s’infiltrer à travers les nuages; une avalanche de blanc menace la montagne… Couleurs chaudes et terriennes et tons aquatiques coexistent dans cette Collection où rafales, averses et nuages créent une composition dynamique dominée par un puissant contraste clair obscur. La collection Automne Hiver 2014/15 imite le tableau romantique ; elle en est tout aussi grandiose et imposante. Le cuir, Le jacquard, et le satin peint à la main créent un patchwork de couleurs qui miment une texture de peinture à l’huile. Les looks qui épousent les formes avec des volumes et des mouvements de tissu imposants expriment la furie de la tempête. Transparences et décolletés plongeants contrastent avec des vestes cintrées collet monté à inspiration baroque. Les pièces de dentelle délicatement coupées s’entremêlent harmonieusement avec des matériaux plus bruts. Cette collection exprime une silhouette féminine qui met en valeur une femme de caractère dont la beauté transparaît dans le vêtement et l’allure.
Paris. 2014. Charlie Le Mindu introduces a new genre in cabaret, where complex heroines flit between ladies of the night and mystical dancing prophets.
As we have come to expect, the hair, a material both sacred and fetishist, enables the designer to give the collection a concentrated rhythm.
We discover once more, the inspirational aesthetic of a free and poetic Haute Coiffure, alongside painted bodies emblazoned with Optical Art.
A journey, inside Paris, evoking feelings of déjà vu and memories of black and white films: crossing Place de l’Etoile, through the labyrinthine Père Lachaise, Porte Ternes, the futuristic buildings of La Defense, and not forgetting Les Invalides.
Through this, with an orgasmic musical score, and analytical forms, Charlie le Mindu offers Paris a breath of fresh air taking us away from the typical grey monotony
In the eleventh collection under his name, Julien Fournié operates radical choices to underline the essence of his style. The aesthetic impulse is set with shades of black singing thanks to a few chosen contratsing colors. "I've been thinking about the precise elegance of Maria Casarès in the 1945 movie by Robert Bresson Les Dames du Bois de Boulogne. How could I render the charm printed on film in black and white, and integrate it to the necessary colors of real life?" The inspiration for the couturier’s response was found "in German expressionism, and particualrly in some works by painter Otto Dix, in the way he put colors side by side to create emotion." Julien Fournié’s enchantresses “à la Anita Berber” are moulded in sharp cuts, infusing to any movement an aristocratic composure. Cut out in dense jerseys or surrounded by a swirl of chiffon, the curves of the bodies are dancing with nobility. The couturier’s universe, close to a David Lynch movie atmosphere this season, portrays sorceresses in essential cuts, printed thorns or spiky long necklaces they consider as talismans. In contrast to the arcanes of blacks, solid colors, inlays or brocade, bakelite embroideries illustrate the eternal struggle between mystery and shimmer, innocence and malice, Good and Evil. "Shadow cannot exist without light." This is what these slender slender ffemales could whisper to discerning ears .Wheteher they favour the pîeces from the first ready-to-wear line included in the show’s first silhouettes, wheteher they fprefer sharp accessories or colorama derbies or whether they adore the spell of Couture total looks, they have chosen to assume their personality and transfiguration.
Photo: © Christian Lartillot
Style : Kuki de Salvertes
Model: Baptiste Giannesini @ Success
Podium © Shoji Fujii
Podium © Etienne Tordoir
Backstage © Sonny Vandevelde