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Gosia Baczynska FW15-16

FRANKENSTEIN’S DREAM There are collections that come together as an answer to the certain topic and those which are created as the result of being in the different state of mind. The newest collection by Gosia Baczyńska belongs to the second type. It came alive more as an effect of philosophical reflection accompanying the design process than application of ready-made inspiration. Words like eternity, endurance, continuation followed the designer through the whole designing process and somehow they define the vibe of the collection. The first point of reference is the find of photographic self-portrait from 1909 – the early example of utopian thinking that new technologies will bring the dream of eternity into being. Another one – the cult film „Frankenstein” directed by James Whale, the story that combines tragic romanticism and progressive offbeat vision. The blending of these two conditions, contrary on the surface, describes the collection in the most complete way and this is what is behind its provocative title. Both photography and film are also referenced in the collection in the choice of pattern, forms and fabrics. The pieces of clothing themselves are created with formal mastery and appreciation of female body shape.There are dresses constructed from tens of geometric metallic organza shapes hand-sewn together which creates unusual avant-garde forms. There are rich textured statement coats and jackets as well as subtle, perfectly cut suits and everyday dresses. There is old hollywood glamour and art deco decorations. There are laser-cut leather pieces and soft, hairy crochets. Baczyńska is able to made the outstanding, cohesive whole from million pieces puzzle. The collection is created from innovative cutting-edge fabrics as silver metallic organza and 3D jacquards with convex diamond shaped forms the shape of which is imitated in custom made knits. The diamond-like outline is further employed in the form of laser-cut leather applications. Rich textures of knits and jacquards are complimented by specially designed prints introducing the strings of story behind the collection. The aforementioned photographic print from 1909 placed in cine-film stripe decorates silk dresses and suits. Pop-cultural image of Frankenstein appears at custom made jacquards as black on black phantom appearance. Collection is supplemented by matching accessories which enhance the cine/photographic inspiration and the vibe of endurance and reappearance. The image form 1909 decorates the specially designed tights. Bags in black and silver mimic the shape of old cameras.

Anne Sofie Madsen FW15-16

Days of Future Passed

The collection is about a place between an unmemorable past and an unimaginable future. It embodies the contrasts between something other worldly and misplaced but at the same time familiar and well known. The silhouettes are inspired by the existence of time traveling. A Collage of futuristic and mechanical, but somehow useless and outdated industrial shapes and something from an unknown and non-existing past. This feeling is evoked by the use of a reinterpretation of traditional handy craft methods. Hand weaving, patchwork pleating, embroidery, blurred hand painted illustrations, water colour patterns and thick brush strokes. Leather, cashmere, hand painted silk and mink fur mixed in uncanny juxtapositions, combining ladylike and tomboyish, effortlessness and over dressed. An invention and reinvention of history.

Ground Zero FW15-16

Alternating through the surrealistic autodrome, GROUND-ZERO F/W 2015 is to provoke your inner rebellion of indigenous youth. Girl power is the inevitable takeaway, where technical fabrics are reinvented with an exquisite take on intoxicating youth culture. Attitude starts from the "GROUND" up, whilst intensified by the magical number "ZERO".

GROUND-ZERO's F/W 2015 collection is to fantasize your ultimate sensation to a motorcycle racing held on an off-road runway in Paris. The signature machinery aura is slightly trimmed with a more playful tone. The irregular cuts draw inspirations from motor gears in which a glam hybridization of sports-luxe spirit is manifestly accented. Shiny fabrics are retouched through the sartorial expression of patterns and prints, while capacious silhouettes feature a scent of the nostalgic 80s.

Jacquard details are extensively seen through the collection, no matter on the screenplay pullover or the jersey shift dress. The duo designers tactfully take adventures to experiment lavishing textures with athletic-influenced shapes, which not only inherits the spirit of S/S 2015, but also elaborates its core thesis to another level. Vibrant colors explode through the collections with motocross-influenced silhouettes featuring BMX lingoes on the clothes, which animate the collection with some sporty quirk. A metaphor is emerged from the classic Marlboro cigarette case, extending that fashion could be "Addicted Anyway". Scribbled lettering like "Rebel Youth" or "Romance Generation" seen on sweatshirts and gloves give a nod to the designers embracing their retro romanticism.

Here comes the 2.0 edition of GROUND-ZERO GANG, the racing tracks are well-paved and -groomed. And you're cordially invited to take a wild ride with us.

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SURRENDER AFTER by JEAN-FRANCOIS CARLY

50 BLACK AND WHITE PORTRAITS: Having made his name in international fashion photography, as a fashion film director and through solo and group exhibitions, Jean-François is showing a highly personal collection of large scale, stylized black and white photographs. For the past three years, he has pushed his own boundaries in both subject choice and technique, photographing people nude on their own beds in their own space. His subjects and collaborators are friends and individuals he met at parties and social gatherings, most of them part of the East London social scene. Jean-François’ understanding of form and light and his very personal compositions have created beautiful images that celebrate the natural and sensual quality of the human body, showing both the individual’s fragility and strength. Taking an approach that is not meant to be titillating, shocking or obscene, they abandon themselves to the camera without any fear of voyeurism or awkwardness. Shot on black and white film, the portraits convey a beautiful depth and a connection with their subjects in a traditionally classical way.

Photographic Exhibition at Forge & Co Gallery / 154 Shoreditch High Street London E1 6HD

20 February - March 4